by Michael F. Johnson

This brief article spotlights various aspects of "canine conditioning ". There is no attempt to describe a full keep, or tout any particular method of exercise. Newcomers to the breed may unearth some useful information, old hands... please bear with me. Now if there was ever a controversial subject this must surely be the one. Bulldog owners are by and large a knowledgeable bunch, and probably unique in their devotion and support for a breed. Myth and folklore however always surrounded the bulldogs, and is still very evident whenever various areas of conditioning are discussed. For the purpose of these few paragraphs, conditioning may be defined as (A DOG IDEALLY PREPARED FOR THE TASK AT HAND). We will briefly examine four broad areas of this subject, and these are, Nutritional, psychological, Physical and Environmental.

As we step through the categories please remember that this article is my opinion only, although I do have first hand experience in all these areas. There are certainly many other valid approaches each with ample history of satisfactory results. As with most things in life common sense is always the best guide. If it doesn't seem right DON'T DO IT. Study the subject, there are many fine books and reference works available.

First on our list is Nutrition.

I will make no apology for the following statements. Never feed commercial canned dog meat, NEVER. These products are for the most part, manufactured from meat re ected as unfit for human consumption. (would you eat rotten horse meat ?). There are very few controls or requirements for processing or manufacture of canned pet foods, it is just not worth compromising your dogs health for convenience. Another objection is that in order to present an appealing and even palatable food, many additives, colorings and chemical flavorings are included that are banned or restricted by the FDA as known or suspected cancer causing agents. Never feed anything to an animal preserved with ethoxyquin or B.H.T. These anti oxidant preservatives are a slow poison, widely used in dry foods as a manufacturing expedient. Take time to read ingredients listed on pet food packaging, Vitamin E is usually a reasonable substitute as preservative. There are prominent additives in many brands of commercially produced dog food that will stimulate canine allergies. Sometimes serious reactions are encountered that are difficult to diagnose. Major culprits apart from chemical toxins are SOY, CORN, WHEAT. These grains should be avoided, they are not beneficial to your dogs well-being.

It is gratifying to note that in recent months several companies are making serious inroads into product improvement. Vegetables are now touted as a healthy inclusion with the meats, and natural ingredients are hailed as desirable. As of this writing my views remain unchanged. Corporate ears are usually attuned to public sentiment, but unfortunately profit is always the driving incentive.

Contrary to popular belief, raw red meat diet is not is an ideal canine feed. Give meat every three or four days, but limit this to flank, back, shoulder or loin. Avoid kidney, liver and spleen.

Heart is usually reasonable to include. Ocean fish such as cod, tuna, shark etc. are preferable to chicken because of unreasonably high toxic chemical contaminants found in commercially produced poultry. Do not over emphasize high protein for adult dogs. Remember that a properly balanced diet is essential, and this should certainly include small amounts of fresh green vegetable and carrot.

Puppies food requirements are vastly different from the adult dog. They should have food available continually. Growing pups requires additional protein and other supplemental additives, although a word of caution is appropriate here. A common mistake is to unbalance the diet with excess protein and vitamins. This situation will encourage unnaturally rapid growth. Bone, muscle, and soft tissues develop at different rates, and if prematurely accelerated often result in permanent damage to joints and skeletal structure. Nursing bitches and old or injured dogs should be evaluated on an individual basis, but will always benefit from a well planned natural diet.

There are a few simple ground rules that will go a long way to ensure healthy feeding routines. Do not overfeed your animal, excess weight is unhealthy for both dog and owner. Another guideline is, fresh is always best. Avoid too many treats, do not feed chocolate or sugary food stuff, and have fresh clean drinking water available at all times. Seasonal changes will generally require more food in cold weather, less in summer. A healthy adult dog should be fed once, certainly no more than twice per day. It is recognized that two daily feedings are beneficial if the animal is prone to bloat, This may be worth considering if the daily routine allows. The greatest gift any owner can give to his or her dog is proper nutrition, study the subject, your dog will love you for it.

Next subject is Psychological.

Many new bulldog owners are surprised at the degree of sensitivity these dogs possess. Blessed with natural intelligence as well as muscle, the bulldog is readily trained and responds best to a loving but firm hand. As with any animal, patience is essential. Whatever activity you prepare the dog for, (show ring to schutzhund) there is one essential rule to remember. To perform with any degree of excellence the animal must want to be there. Every form of competition should be enjoyable, never a chore. Although this may be self evident it is often overlooked. Your dog will strive to please as it is generally in his nature to do so, however there is a vast difference between an animal required to perform and an animal wanting to perform. The key here is to create or sef up conditions appealing enough that the animal will want to return to the task, of his own free will. Once again imagination, patience and understanding will provide successful solutions.

One important ingredient in the welfare of any dog, is the time spent getting to know and understand him. This understanding will prove invaluable when serious training, performance or conditioning is required. Owners of several dogs will find this particularly important, as it is only too easy, with limited time available to unwittingly neglect their dogs in this area.

Ideally do not have more dogs than you can comfortably work with. A child may be fed, clothed and live in fine surroundings but without loving personal parental attention, serious problems will eventually occur. Experience Will teach that your dogs are no different in this regard. Boredom is detrimental to the well being of any dog. Maladies such as excessive barking, unpredictable behavior, scratching and self mutilation may often be traced to boredom. Avoid this condition, again thoughtfulness and personal attention are required of the responsible bulldog owner.

Many problems arise from dogs not being reasonably SOCIALIZED. Ensure that the animal has continual contact with people, and is confidant in strange surroundings. A confidant social animal will not be distracted or expend unnecessary energy combating fear and stress. The best way to socialize your dog is from the whelping box. Raise the dog to accept other people without fear. Take the animal to the store, get him used to traveling. The importance of socializing can never be overstated. Any dog that is afraid or timid in the company of strangers is a potential man biter. A frightened animal suddenly thrust into an unfamiliar situation or confronted suddenly by strangers, is a danger that could have been avoided. Children are especially vulnerable, as it is natural for them to suddenly hug, or grab a dog with no thought for their own safety. It is every parents grave responsibility to teach children about the dangers in approaching any dog.

Physical conditioning is now spotlighted.

Balance is the vital link between physical and mental conditioning. Without one, the other is ineffectual, and the whole is incomplete.

Proper physical conditioning is a most demanding requirement. There are several excellent methods for achieving this. Hand walking wherever possible is probably the best workout for your dog. Never walk your animal without a lead.

Most states require that a dog should be restrained by a lead. This is reasonable legislation and should be adhered to at all times. For those lucky enough to live in surroundings that have open spaces available for exercising, a simple effective lead walking method is available that will yield excellent results. Obtain a long nylon strap or rope, twenty to fifty foot in length is ideal. With this "lead" your dog has the freedom to explore and exercise, running without serious restraint. It is probable that the animal will cover at least twice as much ground as would be normally available to him with the usual walking lead. Benefits from hand walking exercise are innumerable. Not only is physical conditioning achieved, but the time spent with the animal is doubly beneficial.

Bicycles are an excellent conditioning tool for some dogs and trainers. Attach a six to eight foot lead or rope, to any convenient point on the frame and off you pedal. Start the routine slowly at first to allow pads to toughen and muscle to stretch. Within eight weeks a fifteen mile session may be reasonably expected. Ideally this will be broken into short sprints and slow jogging sessions. Now there are several drawbacks to a bike-bulldog combination. Wayfaring cats, other foolish dogs, bouncing balls are all objects of great concern to the intrepid conditioner. It is surprising how quickly a distracted pit bull may assist bicycle and rider to part company. Some manufactures offer inexpensive attachments that apparently help this situation. These aids are supposed to work well, and should save pain and embarrassment. On a serious note, before commencing any roadwork be sure to check underfoot temperature. Blacktop heat will easily go unnoticed when wearing shoes. Our unfortunate bulldog companion may suffer in great pain because of our thoughtlessness.

For most of us city dwellers, lengthy walks with the dogs are just not practical. Another consideration is that elderly or disabled owners are simply unable to engage in demanding or strenuous walking forays with their charges. There is a practical alternative to this however and that is a treadmill. For the purpose of our discussion there are two popular types of n-fill currently available. Both types have advantages and drawbacks so let us first examine the carpet mill.

Two definite advantages of the carpet mill are low cost, and inherently quiet operation. A major disadvantage of this type, is working effort required. Now the primary use for any treadmill, is duplicating hard walking exercise without the need for the owner to participate. Therefore our objective is cardiovascular development. Since far more energy is required from the dog to work a carpet mill, much shorter exercise time is possible. Frictional drag between moving carpet and the support platform beneath, is responsible for most of the hard turning effort. In addition drag is directly related to weight of the animal, heavier dogs will have to work harder than their smaller lighter brothers.

Slat mills are the preferred choice although disadvantages should be considered. First is price. A good example will cost between eight hundred, to as much as fifteen hundred dollars. A carpet mill may be obtained for as little as four hundred. There are light duty carpet models available for about two hundred dollars, but these are really not worth considering. Another slat mill disadvantage is noise in operation. Cheaper poorly made models will often generate uncomfortably loud sound levels during use. This may not be a problem for some situations, but can distract or disturb the animal when exercising. A carefully made slat mill, constructed from high quality components will run quietly, only slightly noisier than the carpet variety.
Two huge advantages of the slat mill are firstly longevity. Inherently slat mill construction favors long life, under heavy use. Secondly ease of operation will allow much longer periods of exercise, and is generally easier for the animal to learn to use.

Here are a few words of advice for anyone acquiring a mill, and anybody unfamiliar with this type of workout. Before using any mill check that everything turns freely, in the case of the slat mill, it should turn comfortably with minimal effort using one finger.

Next examine the running surface for any damage, or condition that may prevent proper use (tom carpet, loose slats or sharp edges etc.). Ensure that the mill is on a flat surface and does not rock, or move.

Having established that the mill is ready and safe for use, the dog should be fitted with a wide collar or harness. Either form of restraint is satisfactory. Some prefer the collar believing that a harness will interfere with free movement when running. Others believe the harness gives the animal a sense of security, it is really a matter of personal choice. The next order of business is to check and trim the nails on all feet. Visually examine, pads and feet for cuts or other damage. Do not feed the animal or give water before his exercise. A short walk to "empty out" is necessary before starting. The last requirement before running is to thoroughly rub the animal. This simple task is extremely important before any form of strenuous work.

Slowly work your hands to massage the dog, starting from the ears and finishing with the rear legs. Special emphasis on the front legs and shoulders, and then joints and muscle in the stifle area. This external stimulation will warm the animal, loosen muscle and promote blood flow. Perform this rub down for a few minutes before and after any workout.

It is reasonable to introduce the dog to the mill at an early age. Simply put him on and, without exercising remove him after a minute or two. In this manner the dog will grow accustomed to the machine and learn to use it as a recreational instrument. Never run a pup under six months of age. With older dogs patience and care are the bywords. Always time your dogs workout accurately, by doing so his training schedule may be increased gradually.

If the animal has never run a mill before, restrict the first few sessions to a maximum of two minutes (about half that time for a carpet mill). Always allow the dog to climb onto the mill from the rear (or lift him into position) and exit from the front when training is over. A direction is then established for him when running. Do not let the animal dictate the length of the training sessions. Remove him from the mill before he is ready to stop.

Even a well conditioned "long winded" dog should be restricted to a maximum of fifteen minutes slat mill exercise, at any one session. For an "out of shape" animal allow a minimum of eight weeks dieting and mill work to achieve sufficient "wind" for fifteen minute running sessions. Remember that every dog is different, and will respond differently to training. Never force the issue, some dogs will simply not run a mill, and should not be made to do so. The best conditioned animals should never run more than two hours per: ten hour day, divided into fifteen minute sessions. These times assume a slat mill is used, considerably less time for a carpet mill. Cool down or recovery time is an excellent indicator of conditioning progress, and should always be recorded. Remember that your dogs health is paramount, do not be tempted to OVER EXERCISE. As we know the bulldog is a glutton for work, be prepared to restrict his enthusiasm.

A short walk after a hard training session is always beneficial. Do not feed, or give drink to your dog for at least thirty minutes after exercise. Never leave your animal unattended when performing any workout.

Always be alert to a dogs condition when working. Be watchful for any signs of distress or fatigue. The watchword for physical conditioning is (a little at a time). I have seen good dogs ruined, because fools have overextended them before they were ready.

Swimming is an excellent method to keep a dog in good physical shape. With any conditioning methods there are always drawbacks. Be aware that swimming a dog is no different. Frequent immersion in water is detrimental to skin, and coat. Temperature drop especially, in colder weather is hazardous. Dogs will expend much energy in maintaining body temperature. A very real risk of cramping muscle and possible drowning must never be overlooked. Remember to thoroughly wash your dog off, after swimming in sea water. It is quite reasonable to construct a simple "tank" for dog swimming. In this manner the animal may be fully exercised under controlled circumstances. Water will normally provide all the buoyancy required for your dog to stay happily afloat. Should the animal be unused to swimming, a simple "underbelly" support may be constructed to provide a sense of security.

Unfortunately our limited space will not allow extended discourse upon this subject, so let us finish with these final comments.

Specific tasks require individual training programs, weight pulling for instance will benefit from technique as well as muscle development emphasizing strength and powerful rear drive. If a hard training program is undertaken do not work the dog every day. One day on, two days off is satisfactory to develop strength and stamina. Days off may be limited to short walks and playing. Always seek QUALIFEED advice before training, ensure that the animal is in good basic health (and properly wormed).

Continuous hard conditioning is not necessary for most dogs, but good diet coupled with moderate exercise will contribute to a long and happy life.

Environmental.

Your dog should have a happy home. If sufficient space permits, a fully enclosed kennel run is ideal. Dogs thrive outdoors and a sunny open position is preferred. Concrete floors in runs are excellent and sanitary, but a little hard on feet and pads. Dirt floors are satisfactory but when damp encourage the growth of bacteria and fungi. A noisy, busy environment is to be avoided if possible. These conditions will often lead to stress and irritability. No matter how the animal is housed, clean fresh water, dry warm shelter must always be available. Privacy, even for a limited time is absolutely essential. Your dog is available to you continually, he delights in these situations so respect his good nature. Feeding time or sleeping time DO NOT DISTURB. No kids playing, no petting or pampering, no other animals. Just let him relax.

Reprinted from ABR #5
© 1999 All rights reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing by the publisher, the American Bulldog Association.